The main source of energy at the coast is the waves generated by the wind. The frictional effect of the wind on the seawater surface produces motion in the upper surface of the water.
1 of 7
Why do waves take the form they have?
The motion of a wave is only a wave shape on the water surface. Individual water particles move in a circular path across the water surface. Sea waves are directly caused by wind.
2 of 7
How does wind influence waves?
The stronger and more persistent the wind, the higher the amplitude of the waves and the more energy there is within the wave.
3 of 7
What happens when waves reach the coastline?
As the wave reaches the shallower water at the coast, the circular motion in the wave is affected by the sea floor. As water depth decreases wave length and velocity decrease and wave height increases. The wave steepens and then breaks on the shore..
4 of 7
What are the characteristics of a constructive wave?
Associated with less powerful winds. A strong swash, the wave 'spills', it causes sediment to be transported up the beach, creating a ridge.
5 of 7
What are the characteristics of a destructive wave?
Associated with stronger winds. A strong backwash, the wave 'plunges', it causes a steep profile beach and sediment is eroded and deposited offshore creating a ridge.
6 of 7
How does wave energy affect the coast?
The extent of wave energy determines whether coasts become erosional, depostional or stable.
7 of 7
Other cards in this set
Card 2
Front
Why do waves take the form they have?
Back
The motion of a wave is only a wave shape on the water surface. Individual water particles move in a circular path across the water surface. Sea waves are directly caused by wind.
Card 3
Front
How does wind influence waves?
Back
Card 4
Front
What happens when waves reach the coastline?
Back
Card 5
Front
What are the characteristics of a constructive wave?
Comments
No comments have yet been made